Walking in Cuenca doesn’t come without challenges!
“Don’t step! Don’t Step!” quickly shortens to “No step! No step!” as we navigate the doggy poo presents scattered randomly throughout our Cuenca walking excursions. Doggy poo bags are not a staple here, like they may be “back home.” But look around, you are not back home anymore Dorothy, which is (hopefully) a GOOD thing!
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These Cuenca walking “obstacles”
seem to be more prevalent in El Centro. This only adds to the ‘no step, no step’ walking exercise because there are SO MANY other things one must be aware of and circumvent in this part of town.
Don’t get me wrong! Living in Cuenca’s El Centro and being able to walk everywhere is exactly what we want. (We already have plans for another trip in the works.) Our transportation, when distance permits, is our feet, but be forewarned, and watch where you step!
IMO, in preparation for travel to Cuenca….
or any travel for that matter, there are two things you must have. My first recommendation is a small to medium crossbody bag that has zippers on all the compartments.
With a crossbody bag, your hands are free and the bag is within your field of vision. You may be on vacation but the pickpockets are not!
I happen to love Baggallini products….
and found that the Baggallini Pocket Lightweight Crossbody Bag is perfect for me. I keep my cell phone in the front compartment while my wallet is in the main section. There are compartments for everything. Plus, you can send it through airport security without anything falling out. The only problem is they never wear out, so I buy several in the different colors to change out!
The second item is a good pair of walking shoes.
Ahnu’s Women’s Montara II Hiking Shoe goes everywhere with me. They’re lightweight, waterproof, have sturdy soles and are low cut, unlike most hiking boots. They’ve been to Australia, Mexico, Belize, and Ecuador, so far.
They’re rugged enough for the uneven Cuenca sidewalks and the Cajas, (check out our hiking post) while avoiding that “clunky” hiking boot look; perfect for El Centro and beyond. These are my day in day out “go-to” shoes – with no more sore, tired feet like when I walk in exercise shoes all day.
Jack’s preference is the Columbia Men’s Redmond Mid Waterproof Boot, which has more ankle support. It’s a traditional hiking boot, however, it’s very lightweight, comfortable, waterproof and breathable. He likes these shoes so much, he purchased the identical shoe when he wore out the first pair.
We always wear these shoes on the plane because they take up the most room in our carry on. (A carry on and computer backpack each is our travel gear.)
Watch out! The first Cuenca walking hazard….
is at our front door. That was a close one! Our door, like most in Cuenca’s El Centro, opens directly onto the sidewalk. There is no lawn or border between the two. We quickly learn to open our front door and check both ways, much like when driving from an intersection. To do otherwise risks a pedestrian collision!
Disappearing sidewalks are a walking….
phenomena we come to expect. First of all, the streets and sidewalks are not smooth concrete. They are some assortment of stone or patchwork, often with built-in obstacles.
Sidewalks are not wide to begin with.
“Watch out, here comes a truck” I yell as we are both forced into the street by an ever-narrowing sidewalk or an unexpected sidewalk intrusion. As you can see in the picture below, front door steps often protrude unceremoniously onto what little sidewalk space there is. The ever-changing sidewalk widths make walking an exercise to be reckoned with!
Separating people from traffic….
is a never-ending quest. “Ouch” I yell as I almost fall flat on my face during a busy afternoon. “What? What?” Jack questions, grabbing my arm. Yes, I am saved once again. Sometimes the pedestrian traffic is so heavy it’s hard to also watch the ground. Such was the case of the concrete pillars seen below.
Designed to separate traffic from people, they are also amazing trip hazards. I ran into a taller version of one of these, hard, in Cusco Peru while crossing a very busy intersection.
The Tranvia really deserves its own post….
but I’ll save that for a return visit. Maybe by then, it will actually be carrying passengers. I find it extremely ironic that pedestrians and cars are separated by concrete blocks or curbs on occasion, but not so with the Tranvia.
See that yellow”ish” line in the sand, I mean the street? Cross it at the wrong time and you could be a Tranvia hood ornament. Ecuadorians are, rightfully so, completely unaccustomed to a “light rail” in their City. So much so, that the Tranvia runs empty with the Transito Policia riding in advance to ward off any ped/car vs Tranvia collisions. There have already been several fender benders.
People love to set up shop on the sidewalk….
or stop and sit on the sidewalk for a conversation. We are amused as we dodge both shops and conversations that magically form, always in the middle of the sidewalk.
Of course, this is also part of what we love about Cuenca. Everything is so readily available, you can literally trip over it!
Some hazards can cause real damage!
“No step! No step!” I call out to Jack pointing directly at a giant leg swallowing hole in the sidewalk. I am usually the navigator in our travels, be it in a car or on foot. And this time it’s not the dreaded doggie poo. This giant hole is just waiting to claim it’s next victim.
If you want to break your habit….
of walking along with your eyes fixated on your cell phone, Cuenca will do it for you. Besides the ground hazards, there are also elevational hazards. Scaffolding is common and is often combined with equipment or other things hanging from above.
OMG. Duck! No, it isn’t a bird I am pointing out! “Duck!” Jack moves just in time to avoid strangulation by low hanging wire. Ok, well we’ve seen low hanging wires in the past, just not THIS low hanging. Fortunately, he had good eye protection (just in case) with his Blenders sunglasses.
The safest way to see Cuenca is to stop, step aside, then look. We are in the habit of basically “pulling over” like you do when driving if something catches our eyes. It’s an easy exercise and gets us home in one piece.
There is so much to see and enjoy in Cuenca, and other Ecuadorian cities. Just take your time, and be aware that some obstacles may be in transit, like the ones below!
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Love this article!
I am not complaining about the state of walking in Cuenca, but one does miss so much when simply keeping an eye on the ground. Some days I feel like taking a bright pink spray can of paint with me to mark where a sidewalk dips and my bifocals do not pick up the change! LOL
Thanks Sherryl. We love feedback. If we see bright pink paint on our next visit, we’ll know you’ve been there!